[discussion] Burando and Indie - pros and cons [part 1 of 2]

As I've mentioned already, I got into lolita when it was nearly impossible to get brand, and then now, over a decade later, not only is it easier to get brand, but the old brands are mostly running strong, and there are also smaller Chinese and Korean and even western indie brands to buy from. Handmade is now an option mostly for the talented sewers, the truly poor but still have a lot of free time, and the nutjobs out there like me; not a particularly great seamstress, not poor, and doesn't actually have that much free time, but still likes to DIY their own stuff for some reason.

So let's talk about brands and non-brands and their value to me. What do I think is worth getting brand versus indie versus handmade? Stuff I would tell a new lolita starting out, that I wish I was told, etcetera. Again, all my opinion, and should not be taken for gospel truth!

1. Main pieces such as dresses, skirts - I think it's worth getting brand and indie brand here, trying to find good non-brand stuff on ebay is not worth the hunt and hassle and likely disappointment, and even Etsy or resellers can get risky. (Unless you're looking at the sales site of an actual indie brand or lolita crafter obviously.) If you are starting out, it's totally worth it to save up for a second-hand brand or indie brand found on the sales livejournal or facebook communities or lacemarket or closetchild. After that, branching into different styles and finding thrift store or ebay bargains can be your idea of an adventure. I'm currently in the adventure phase since I've bought most of my dream dresses and don't want to spend any more money just yet. But like I said, making your own, altering normal dresses, trawling ebay or other non-dedicated sites are generally not worth the time and money especially now that you youngsters can get second hand or lucky pack castoffs easily. Save adventuring for when you level up.
2. Petticoats, bloomers - I think indie petticoats are fine, brand ones are not worth the money, since most petticoats seem to deflate after a while. I got my A-line and bell-shape from Classical Puppets, but I also have a Leg Avenue petticoat and a homemade circle skirt with tulle stuck on it for extra puff when the indie ones eventually de-poof. I don't wear bloomers, I just wear exercise shorts, but they're easy to make. I made my own just to try it out, so getting them for super cheap (new) or making them are fine if you want to complete the look of frills.
3. Shoes - I'm just going to say it, I buy Bodyline shoes and knockoff shoes that I am pretty sure are replicas. I do have one pair of Innocent World shoes, and I will forever think about getting  Alice and the Pirates boots. But I don't think shoes are worth brand name prices and if you have larger feet, you're probably not even going to find (Asian) brand shoes in your size anyway. Shoes really complete the look, so Bodyline level quality and price for the wear and use they undergo is a great bargain. On the other hand, I own a lot of department store and Target and Payless shoes that work just fine for lolita, especially boots, and many flawless lolitas wear normal boots and shoes and make them look fantastic.
4. Coats, jackets, boleros - I buy brand and offbrand for these. If you live in a warm climate, it's probably not worth buying a brand name wool coat unless it matches everything in your wardrobe; on the other hand, offbrand choices aren't super great because they often don't flare out enough to accommodate a poofy skirt. As for jackets/boleros, I love all of my Forever 21 jackets and western brand finds because I wear military style, but the truly frilly bolero or cardigan is a little harder to find outside of the specific lolita brands, and regular ones may require alteration or decoration. I have been trying to make myself sew a cardigan, but... no luck just yet.
5. Blouses - I am fairly lucky and find pretty good cheap blouses in thrift stores or inexpensive fashion stores. If you wear mostly blouses under jumperskirts or one piece dresses, then try to find a blouse with a pretty collar, peter pan or high collar or ruffly or lacy in some way. Don't just wear a plain button-down shirt, lmao. But if you wear blouses with skirts, then it would be better to find a brand/indie brand blouse, because there's no dress bodice to cover up a plainer style of blouse. (Or you can wear a fancy jacket or vest over a plain blouse and skirt combo, but... might just be easier to buy a brand blouse second-hand.) I am definitely not skilled enough to make my own blouse, but that's second on my list.
6. Legwear - I find a combination of both brand and offbrand to work fine! I think regular plain tights are great for layering, as well as lacy tights or striped tights. Plenty of local stores sell knee high socks with cute designs or lacy ankle socks, so it's not absolutely necessary to buy brand. If you must invest in brand to go with your fabulous one piece, the matching tights (if available) are the best investment. I personally hate wearing tights, because they hurt my tummy under layers of petticoats and shorts and dress and blouse. I much prefer wearing thigh highs or knee high socks, especially the thick cotton ones which don't feel slippery and which offer a little padding for your shoes. But I must agree with the consensus, the overall best look for any person and any style is tights (or very high socks), as they work well for both sweet and classical and gothic styles if coordinated to each corresponding style.

I will talk about jewelry and headdresses and purses and things that don't immediately touch your skin at another post, stay tuned!