Heyo, this was supposed to be my March sewing project to work on during my vacation, but it was a bit more complicated than I expected and I just finished in early May lol. This coral gold-foil brocade fabric was leftover from my robe a la francaise inner layers. I bought a hefty yardage from Aliexpress thinking I could make the outer gown from it, but it was so bright and orange and stiffer than expected, I had my doubts, so I pivoted to making just the bodice and inner petticoat skirt from this fabric. I had a bunch leftover, especially from the edges where the floral printing blurred, and since it was technically from China and meant for cheongsam/qipao or furniture, why not challenge myself to make a qi lolita outfit? How hard could it be? I made a qipao like dress from a commercial Western pattern before, and I sewed a hanfu costume myself.
It was hard! Should have expected that lol.
I used a pattern from Otome no Sewing volume 16. In case you aren't familiar with Otome no Sewing, they have patterns for all of their more complex pieces technically printed in the pattern paper, but you have to combine different dress patterns and make a few adjustments on your own for the variations. The qi lolita top is actually a variation on an old school a-line dress pattern, we're just adding a fake side closure for the frog knot closures and drafting a mandarin high collar instead of peter pan collar, then attaching a ruffle peplum at the waist.
You may wonder, what is difficult about sewing this top? First off, installing a zipper is always hard for me. Secondly, without any shirring, it required tailoring to fit my body and it still is a little loose. Thirdly, the fabric is a slippery jacquard brocade that frays when you glance at it. Finally, the directions do not provide for a very clean finish, especially when you're like me and don't measure out seam allowances to the millimeter.
But I persevered, even sewed a lining for the bodice and finished most of the seams by hand. It may not be the most attractive top, the important thing is I tried out some new techniques and it will not fall apart readily. The hair bun covers are also from the same Otome no Sewing mook, the hairbow (not pictured) was made from a Gothic Lolita Bible.
[top, hair bun covers, bows: handmade; skirt, shoes: Bodyline; socks: Metamorphose; earrings iconografi; rings: BisouLovely, off-brand]
As you can see by the photo, the fit isn't tailored through the waist, I could have taken an inch in from the back all the way up. The model in the mook had a slightly loose boxy fit as well, but when you think qipao, you think very nipped in and figure-skimming, so the looseness doesn't match my vision. Also, the zipper was 2 inches short, so the collar is flaring out a little rather than hugging my neck. That's okay, though, since the gold lace I used was extra scratchy. (I did have other gold laces but they were a muted antique gold which would not complement the bright brassy gold in the print.) If you look closely at the cuffs and collar, you can see where I struggled to make a clean outside finish due to the slipperiness and fraying of the fabric - top stitching crooked, lace sticking out unevenly. From a distance, it looks fine though, it's fine.
I didn't have enough fabric left for a matching skirt obviously, so I just made two embellished bows to pin to this plain cotton bodyline skirt. This was not an easy color to work with, not sure how I could have made a more coherent coord with only scraps left and not buying anymore fabric. However, this photo of me with the braided hair loops and bun covers is just very cute! I appreciated this challenge and am now browsing to see if my Hello Kitty sewing machine has a zipper or ruffler foot to make the difficult steps easier lol.
Would I make something like this again? Probably not. I don't really see an occasion for me to wear this (or honestly any lolita) out and about, but since it's a shirt, I can imagine myself wearing it with jeans actually, that might be very stylish!
Some people, probably not you, but some people, may ask, is it proper and acceptable for non-Chinese people to wear qi lolita, or non-Japanese people to wear wa-lolita? I already answered this previously. The first part of the answer is, if you can easily buy it officially from the makers who are of said culture (assuming you have the funds of course), then it was meant to be sold to you and you can wear it. Therefore, qi and wa lolita can be worn by non-Asians, there's nothing sacred or private about it, they stock it at the American and European shops. Now, are you wearing the dress respectfully and at an appropriate time and place? That will be the final piece of the answer and depends directly on you and the environment that you are in, which is different for each lolita.
That's all from me. Summer is already here in Texas and I am reluctant to wear lolita when it's broiling outside, but I do have 2 more lolita sewing projects and a few accessories I want to make (a hooped petticoat skirt for summer for starters). As for this blog, I am trying to find a way to integrate all my blogs into my own domain but blogs aren't as troublesome as social media, so moving this fashion blog is not a huge priority, it's more getting away from twitter or instagram (already ditched facebook).
Oh wait, here is a photo of the outfit with the hairbow, forgot I took one. If you click through, you can see I added a cherry blossom charm from Daiso and beads and gold brass charms to the bows, so cute! Ignore the droopy skirt lol.
No comments:
Post a Comment