[discussion] gatekeeping in lolita

[crossposted from Tumblr] 

Too long for twitter post, but I do want to say something about lolita fashion while I’m still active here lol.  This post is all my honest opinion, it’s not the “facts”, but it’s a thorough explanation about something I care about, and made in entirely good faith with no intent to upset anyone.

Lolita fashion, like all fashion, is made of fabrics formed from plants and plastics. It has a following, but anyone can wear it, just like how anyone can wear any clothing out there if they want. It’s just clothes. It’s just processed plants and plastics.  To say only a certain group of people can wear this fashion is akin to saying transwomen cannot, or black or brown fans cannot, or that you need this much money and education levels, etcetera, to wear the clothes.

However, the reason why lolitas may appear to be “gatekeeping” or “snobby” or “overinvested in improving a beginner’s knowledge” about the fashion to the outside is because of, well, look at the name. The term, already having an unfortunate connotation as the Japanese designers who coined the term probably did not intend it to become known worldwide, means that a lot of unsavory folks will also be interested in the fashion for whom they are not the intended demographic. There could be physical dangers from infiltration into communities, but that’s gonna be true of every alternative fashion. Mostly the wearers of the fashion want to keep it a thriving and innovative and fun and welcoming community with lots of support for the designers (note many a popular Japanese brand have gone out of business or consolidated). They can best do this if everyone is educated about the goals of the fashion and you know, don’t invite shady fetishists in that will scare the new lolitas away.

If you are a cosplayer or costumer who sewed a Joann’s pattern, if you came into the fashion from the goth scene and bought something from one of the crossover brands, if you bought a dress you like in the window in Tokyo, no one will stop you from wearing it, uncoordinated, for a dress-up party, to your cottage core picnic photoshoot, whatever. But if you claim you are a lolita expert having done none of the research or invested time (which translates into money) into understanding what makes the fashion special and then try to miseducate others?  You will be found out.

Think about it - No one in the world is going to prevent you from wearing punk or goth clothing in public. But punks have every right to beat you up if you wear punk clothing to like, a white supremacist rally.  Wear a ceremonial eagle feather headdress when you’re completely European white?  Mmm, nope. You have the freedom to wear whatever clothes you want for whatever reason.  You are not immune from the consequences for the decision you make, though. Lolitas aren’t going to whack you with frilly parasols if you are found wearing sneakers and no petticoat, but the initial bluntness and/or wealth of information offered is a defense mechanism for a reason. Unlike many alternative fashions, lolita can get expensive quickly, difficult and time-consuming to make at home even if you’re a trained sewist, and refers to a specific silhouette that you can’t easily thrift. Since we depend on the designers so much, it’s in our best interest to make sure everyone knows what they’re getting into, all seven layers of it, to uplift and support the established and upcoming brands, the independent artists, the entire community.

But again, that doesn’t mean you can’t just try it out for yourself casually.  It means that you shouldn’t spread misinformation about a very involved fashion if you’re new to it. Honestly, you probably shouldn’t say anything to anyone about any non-mainstream fashion or subculture or ethnicity you don’t know much about, let’s be real here, like are you going to talk about Jewish holidays if you’re not raised in the faith, no, why would you do that.

It’s not people being mean or exclusionist, I believe most groups would love to welcome new people, be mentors to newbies, otherwise it’d get boring and the culture would die out. Really, it’s to make sure we can still have tea parties and fashion walks in the future without being worried about our safety or getting taken down by the interpol. It may be a random $40 dress from Amazon to you, but it’s the livelihood of artists living their dream and the solace and joy of fans all over the world. Be thoughtful, either do your research or just enjoy it on your own with your friends group.